July 21, 2024

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The Young Designers to Know at Pitti Uomo

6 min read

I never really take my eye makeup off, and I don’t wear foundation or concealer. I just splash water on my face in the morning and I use Environ Retinol Serum 1. If I’m a good girl I use Garnier Vitamin C Daily UV Brightening Fluid and then I put more eye makeup on my already made-up eyes. I use any black eyeliner on my waterline. It’s always a pencil — you can smudge it way easier and I like my makeup looking a little bit effortless. Right now I’m using one from Givenchy, their Khôl Couture Waterproof pencil. I get eyelash extensions done every two or three weeks, so I don’t really use mascara. I used to wake up an hour before school started just to do my makeup. Now that I get eyelash extensions, I feel ready as soon as I wake up; I’ll never stop getting them. Sometimes I use a cheek tint from Jillian Dempsey that makes me look sun-kissed. I put it on my nose. Sometimes I’ll use Chanel Le Gel Sourcils on my brows. I naturally have pretty thin brows but I’ve thinned them out more recently because I saw a picture of my mom in the ’90s and she looked so good with thin brows. The only lipstick I use is by Kiko Milano — Powder Power Lipstick in shade 15. I put it on my nose, lips and cheeks. Sometimes I do my makeup before I get into the shower — it’s such a good hack. Your skin gets dewy. I know your T-zone is meant to look matte but I like it looking a little sweaty sometimes. My makeup artist uses a Chanel Baume Essentiel highlighter stick that’s so amazing. It’s completely clear.

I’m trying to be really good with my hair because it used to be bleached blonde and that messed it up badly. I use L’Oreal Professionnel Volumetry Volumizing Shampoo and K18 Damage Shield Protective Conditioner. When I get out of the shower I use Sam McKnight Cool Girl Barely There Texture Mist to volumize my hair and Bread hair oil — that’s probably my scent because I use so much of it. I’ve got Weleda Skin Food Ultra-Rich Cream for my body. At night I splash my face with water and use three pumps of the Environ moisturizer again. It’s the only thing I use morning and night; it’s so good. Even though the retinol isn’t very strong, it’s made such a massive difference in my skin. I used to wash my face and use so many products that I would break out. When I stopped touching my face and stuck with one product it got better.

This interview has been edited and condensed.

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Just like the variety of vintage treasures in the shops along Frankford Avenue in Fishtown, no two rooms are alike at Hotel Anna & Bel, the first full-service hotel in the artsy Philadelphia neighborhood. Housed in a 1769 Italianate-style mansion and a connected townhouse, the 50 rooms — decorated with velvet or linen sofas and custom wood, velvet or rattan beds — range from studios to two-bedroom suites. The mansion’s original staircase was preserved along with wood ceiling beams and four fireplaces. Guest rooms on the second floor, most with balconies, overlook the courtyard, which is anchored by a 10.5-meter pool. Caletta, the hotel’s cocktail bar, which opens onto the poolside patio, is planning to offer spritzes alongside small Italian dishes like fried artichokes and zeppole Calabrese. Also on the ground floor is Bastia, the hotel’s Mediterranean restaurant, which will serve produce from Green Meadow Farm in Lancaster County, Pa., and seafood from New Jersey’s Local 130, a fishmonger specializing in seasonal and regional stocks. Several wellness areas complete the amenities, including a fitness center with an infrared sauna and a rooftop yoga deck. Hotel Anna & Bel opens Aug. 7; from $300 a night, annaandbel.com.

When Emily Grey set to work on Grey’s, her first women’s wear line, she found inspiration not in sartorial archives but in early 20th-century interiors. The 28-year-old Central Saint Martins graduate’s references included a Secessionist salon in Vienna by the Austrian architect Josef Hoffmann and the French interior designer Pierre Chareau’s sets for the 1924 French film “L’inhumaine.” In such references, the London-based designer says, “there’s a balance of practicality and romanticism that I’m also trying to create within the collection.” Handcrafted in England, the resulting 12-piece collection — now available for preorder — marries comfort with artisanal details: A felted, box-shaped jacket, which takes its ocher hue from an Art Deco standing screen seen in the fashion designer Geoffrey Beene’s former New York apartment, is as soft as it is structured, while the sweeping silhouette of a blanket-like opera coat is embellished with tassels from a traditional passementerie maker who specializes in intricate trimmings. From about $605, greys.studio.

Covet This

In March 2023, the French beauty brand Sisley and the New York-based designer Ulla Johnson began a collaboration at Johnson’s runway show, held that season at Manhattan’s Hudson Yards. The makeup artist Romy Soleimani used Sisley products to give models glowing skin and, in some cases, crimson lips. “There is always a focus on enhancing natural beauty with beautiful, healthy skin and pops of color,” says Johnson, who turned to Sisley again for her Spring and Fall 2024 shows. Now, the two brands have collaborated on a kit that will help you achieve runway-ready skin at home. In addition to Johnson’s favorite Black Rose Cream Mask, a limited-edition size of the leather Ulla Johnson Wave bag will hold other go-to beauty products: a revitalizing Black Rose Eye Contour Fluid, protective anti-aging All Day All Year cream and Nutritive Lip Balm that fits in a removable pouch decorated with an orange and deep purple floral print from Johnson’s Fall 2024 collection. $1,600, bergdorfgoodman.com.

The trade fair Pitti Immagine Uomo — held biannually in and around Florence’s Fortezza da Basso, a repurposed 16th-century fortress northwest of the city’s famed Duomo — has served as a global barometer for men’s wear since it was first organized in 1972. This June, alongside a lengthy roster of traditional tailoring houses, shoemakers and craftspeople, a number of young labels are presenting collections at Pitti (as it’s often referred to) for the first time. The Chilean designer Guido Vera founded his namesake label in 2018. Born and raised among the harsh, icy landscapes of Punta Arenas, one of the southernmost inhabited places in the world, Vera centers his design practice around an appreciation of nature. His new collection includes two collaborations with Chilean artisans: borosilicate glass jewelry inspired by the forms of winter frost made with the glass workshop and design studio Glass Lab and a vegan footwear capsule with Cresta that uses recycled plastic and cactus leather. Before founding his label Raxxy in 2020, the Chinese designer William Shen competed in his home country’s mathematical Olympiad, winning a silver medal. Shen uses geometric algorithms to create his modular puffer garments, whose segmented, block-like pieces resemble intricate knitwear when sewn together. (There’s an element of sustainability here too, as damage to a Raxxy piece can be easily remedied thanks to those replaceable pieces, unlike with traditional puffers.) Last week, the designers Daniel Gayle and James Bosley held a fashion show in London for their brand Denzilpatrick, named in honor of Gayle’s Jamaican and Irish grandfathers, Denzil and Patrick. Right after the show, the designers packed everything up and brought it to Florence, where they’ll present the collection alongside pieces made especially for Pitti in partnership with the French luxury group Kering. A new fleece hoodie is knitted with organic cotton and agricultural byproduct banana fibers, while sportswear was made from two layers of recycled nylon laser-cut with a pattern of swirling, many-bloomed spears of acanthus flowers.

From T’s Instagram

Caitie Kelly

2024-06-13 09:04:40

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